Yamaha MT8X

The Yamaha MT8X, released in the early 1990s, is an 8-track cassette multitrack recorder.

A common issue with this model and many 4-tracks, is the transport switches stop working.

I replaced all the switches in a machine. This was a great excuse to buy a new desoldering tool, to make this repair, and future repairs easy.

To desolder all these switches, I used a Hakko desoldering gun.

Hakko – FR-301 Portable Desoldering Tool (100V)

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This is the Japanese version so it needs 100V. There are videos on how to modify this on Youtube, but I happened to have a 120V to 100V step down converter so I used this to get going quickly. If budget isn’t a problem, there’s also the 120V Hakko US version, but it costs about $100 more.

This tool made the job so much easier, and I feel like it the suction is calibrated well. It’s strong enough to remove the hot solder, but it doesn’t feel like it’s going to easily remove the solder pads.

After replacing all the switches, the buttons are super snappy and responsive. The button responds at the same time the make a clicking sound (no need to press hard).

By the way, the buttons I used to replace it are the following:

6mm x 6mm x 4.3mm Momentary Tactile Tact Push button switches (26 were needed)

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If you look at this photo closely you’ll notice I also had to install some jumper wires to fix broken traces. If it’s still not working after replacing the switches, check the connections with a multimeter in continuity mode. You can start by checking each connection of the board-to-board wire, with where the traces lead. Check to make sure the multimeter beeps. If it doesn’t add a jumper wire.

Looking great in the sun.

Here’s a list of all the tools mentioned in this post:

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4 responses to “Yamaha MT8X”

  1. Hi, thank you for the report about replacing the buttons.
    I have another issue in addition: with some buttons unexpected things occur, e.g. if I press RecSelect button 4 oder 8 the Tape starts playing… I guess that just changing the buttons won’t help, or what do you think? Kind Regards, Björn

    1. Hello, sorry for the late response. If the buttons are all working well besides that issue, it’s unlikely that simply replacing the button would fix the issue. I actually don’t think I mentioned it, but if you look at the photo of the switch board, you can see I had to resolder some connections with jumper wires. I would suggest checking the traces with a continuity meter, and if you find any broken traces, you can patch them with some wire like I did. Hope that helps!

  2. Hi, thank you for sharing!
    I have exactly same issue with mine (probably). Do I understand correctly that those switches go under buttons?

    1. Hello. Yes the new switches go under the buttons. Also, they don’t need to be perfectly straight since the actuator is a circle. But make sure they are flush with the PCB when you install them. I like to install one leg first, then heat it again and press the button while the solder is melted. This pushes it flush with the board. Then I solder the second leg.

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